Introduction
The past is all around you on the Isle of Man, in the landscape and buildings all around you. The Island's varied and often turbulent history has left a fascinating legacy, just waiting to be discovered. From prehistoric burial sites and Viking fortresses to Victorian architecture and diminutive thatched cottages, the Isle of Man offers a compelling journey back through time in a compact and accessible landscape.
Ancient Sites
The earliest inhabitants of the Island have left many traces: the landscape is dotted with the remains of hillforts, burial sites and settlements from the Bronze, Iron and Stone Ages. The most significant of these are Cashtal Yn Ard (north-east), a Neolithic chambered tomb, and the Meayll Circle (south), a Megalithic burial site. Stone crosses – used as grave markers and memorials - have also been found in abundance around the Island, with the earliest ones dating back to the 6th Century.
The Viking Past
The Vikings first came to the Isle of Man in about 800AD and held sway for over four and a half centuries; their influence is everywhere to be seen. Most famously, they established the Island's parliament Tynwald, which is the oldest continuous parliament in Europe. They also gave the Island many of its place-names: Norse place names include the use of fell (mountain), rick/wick (cove or bay), howe (hill) and ayre (gravel beach). There are a number of carved stone crosses around the Island attributed to the Vikings; many combine motifs of Celtic Christianity with scenes from Norse mythology and religion, perfectly expressing the confluence of two cultures. The Island has a number of Viking burial sites, which are particularly concentrated in the north. The earliest parts of Peel Castle date back to Viking times and in 1984, there was a particularly notable excavation which unearthed the 10th Century 'Pagan Lady' and her necklace: these and the finds from many more archaeological digs, plus a wealth of information about the Vikings' legacy, can be found in the Manx Museum in Douglas.
Maritime and Military
Since time began, the Irish Sea has been both friend and foe to the Isle of Man. As befits a people who have always depended on the sea for a living - be it through the herring fleets or boats bearing more clandestine cargo – the Manx have always distinguished themselves at sea. Perhaps the most famous of these was Captain John Quilliam, who helped Nelson steer the 'Victory' to glory in the Battle of Trafalgar. The famous story of the HMS Bounty has no less than two Manx connections: Captain Bligh was married on the Isle of Man and Fletcher Christian's paternal family came from a long line of Manx gentry. The Island's coast is littered with shipwrecks, many with fascinating stories attached, and the Nautical Museum in Castletown sheds more light on the Isle of Man's relationship with the sea – and smuggling! Around the coast, there are a number of sites which were used as strategic defence points against sea-borne invaders and these are also highly interesting to explore. At the time of the English Civil War, the Island was in the keeping of the Royalist Derby family, and became a focal point in the struggle - learn the story of Illiam Dhone ('Brown William') the Manx nationalist politician and military commander who refused to surrender the Island. Further inland, traces of ancient hillforts are still to be found and of course, in Castle Rushen, the Island has one of the best-preserved mediaeval fortresses in Europe.
The Rural Past
Another, more peaceful side of the Island's history can be found in the thatched cottages which were once home to Manx crofters. Cregneash Village, in the south, is home to an open-air working agricultural museum, where you can wander round amongst the pretty whitewashed cottages and barns and see ploughing, shearing, weaving, wood-turning and other practices as they were done in past centuries. At the other end of the Island, in Ramsey, the Grove Rural Life Museum is a perfectly preserved Victorian family home, which offers a taste of a more genteel yet still industrious life.
If you fancy straying off the beaten track, there are many ruined 'tholtans' – old deserted farmsteads - dotted around the hills, valleys and dense plantations.A large proportion of the Island's inland hills and valleys consist of farmland of the past or present and you can see fine examples of dry stone walling still intact after over one hundred years.
Victorian Splendour
The industry and innovation of the Victorian age lie behind some of the Island's most striking engineering and architecture. Most notable is the Laxey Wheel (or 'Lady Isabella'), the world's largest working water wheel, which was built in 1854 to pump water from the nearby Great Laxey Mines. Measuring 72 feet in diameter, it is a magnificent sight and an incredible feat of design and construction by a local engineer. The derelict structures of many mines are to be found around the Island, providing an insight into the working past. If you're interested in more leisurely bygone days, then the Steam and Electric Railways should be at the top of your sightseeing list. The Gaiety Theatre, one of the most important and beautifully preserved Victorian theatres in Europe, is also a must-see, and while you're in Douglas, it's worth taking a look at the Great Union Camera Obscura, a Victorian tourist curio which is one of the few remaining in the British Isles.
Manx National Heritage
The Story of Mann
Manx National Heritage, a division of the Isle of Man Government, owns and operates several significant heritage and cultural sites around the Island, including historic properties, ancient monuments, natural landscapes and formal museums. These have been interlinked by the award-winning 'Story of Mann' a conceptual narrative which leads you through the Island's history by theme. Whether you complete the whole trail or only follow part of the story, this is an excellent way to become acquainted with the Island's rich and unusual past.
The key sites are as follows:-
The Manx Musuem – Douglas
Begin the journey here at the 'treasure house' of Manx heritage. As well as rooms of fascinating displays detailing layers upon layers of Manx history, there is library, an exhibition gallery, a lecture and film theatre, a restaurant and a gift shop.
The House of Manannan – Peel
Situated on the harbourside in Peel, the House of Manannan is an outstanding modern museum with an especial focus on the Island's Celtic, Viking and maritime past. Interactive displays and dramatic presentations make for an engrossing experience.
Peel Castle – St Patrick's Isle, Peel
The sandstone ruins of Peel Castle represent what is perhaps the Island's foremost historical monument. The earliest parts of the site date back to the 11th Century, since which time St Patick's Isle has been a site of both religious and secular importance. Faint hearts should take note that the castle has a ghost – a spectral hound called the Moddey Dhoo ('black dog') said to haunt the guard room at the castle entrance.
Castle Rushen
Hailed as one of the best preserved Mediaeval fortresses in Europe, Castle Rushen is an absolute must-visit for history lovers. Dominating the harbourside in the Island's former capital, the castle's imposing limestone bulk tells the story of the English nobles who reigned over Mann for centuries in war and peace. Throughout the castle's labyrinth of rooms, evocative recreations paint a picture of life as it was several centuries ago. From the highest battlements to the depths of the dungeon, Castle Rushen is an unforgettable journey through the past.
The Old Grammar School
From Castle Rushen, it's only a short stroll to St Mary's, the old whitewashed grammar school which looks out over the Irish Sea. Built over 650 years ago as a chapel, it is thought that it was used for education from as early as 1570, and the interior has been preserved to give a recreation of the austere and simple conditions in which the local children would have been taught.
The Nautical Museum
This wonderful old building is a living testament to the Isle of Man's age-old relationship with the sea. Reconstructions, galleries and antique artefacts tell of the Island's naval heritage and bring to life different aspects of its fishing industry through the centuries. The real revelation, however, is the 18th Century armed smugglers' yacht, the 'Peggy'. Deemed to be of extraordinary maritime importance by the National Historic Ships Register, it was built in 1791 and walled up for over a century before being discovered intact in 1935.
The Old House of Keys
The last part of the Castletown trail is this former house of government, situated in the shadow of Castle Rushen. The building has been sensitively restored to its prime of the mid 1800s, when Douglas succeeded Castletown as the Island's capital and the House of Keys went from being self-appointed to popularly elected, thus laying the foundations for modern democracy.
Rushen Abbey
What now consists simply of a handful of ruined buildings in a peaceful location by the Silverburn river, was once the site of a powerful Cistercian abbey and the Island's foremost seat of religious power. Excavations of the site have enhanced our understanding of the abbey's influence, and a visit provides a fascinating glimpse of monastic life in the Middle Ages.
National Folk Musuem
If you want an authentic picture of Manx farming as it was in centuries past, Cregneash village is the place to go. The most southerly settlement on the Island, this tiny peaceful village of thatched, whitewashed cottages is also a working farm where you can see traditional methods used, for instance, for ploughing and shearing. The famous Harry Kelly's cottage recreates a traditional Manx croft just as it would have been a century or more ago, and there are plenty of farm animals to see, including the Loaghtan sheep.
The Grove
'The Grove', in Ramsey, is a Victorian villa which was built as a summer retreat by a Liverpool shipping merchant, one Duncan Gibb. At the wishes of his family, it has been preserved with every attention to period detail and its grounds and outbuildings have much of interest in terms of antiquated farming equipment. Take a cream tea served by staff in authentic period costume and enjoy this slice of a genteel bygone age.
The Great Laxey Wheel & Mines Trail
More than just a landmark, the world-famous Laxey Wheel is the crowning glory of a wide-scale restoration project which has revealed to people the fascinating history of Laxey as a mining village. In the mid 1800s, Laxey's mining industry was a thriving concern on a vast scale which employed hundreds and shaped both the landscape and fortunes of the village. You can discover just how by following the trail around the valley and down into the village, where the former washing floors, now transformed into scenic gardens, are home to a second, working water wheel and a restored railway which was once used to carry lead and zinc ore to the floors from the mines.
The Great Union Camera Obscura
The 'Camera Obscura' was built in the 1880s as a tourist attraction and is now one of only four remaining in the British Isles. Its unique arrangement of lenses within the kiosk building enabled holidaymakers to see panoramic views of Douglas - and spy on courting couples! It was completely renovated in the early 'noughties', restoring it to its Victorian glory.
Niarbyl Café and Visitor Centre
Overlooking Niarbyl Bay in the idyllic village of Dalby, the handsome white visitor centre (converted from a traditional cottage) tells the story of the area's history with audio-visual and photographic presentations. It also serves as a tearoom and restaurant and the stunning views over the sea and the south-west cliffs make it a wonderful place to dine day or evening.
Sound Visitor Centre
The Calf Sound is perhaps the foremost beauty spot on the Island, with spectacular views of the Calf of Man and the surrounding coastline. The Visitor Centre, which also comprises a café, unfolds the Sound's natural and human history in an attractive and accessible way. The Centre has been sensitively designed to minimise its impact on the landscape while allowing visitors a 'widescreen' view which is beautiful in all weathers.